Centuries old Brunei weaving industry
Beautiful threads: Top, an instructor at the Arts and Craft Centre supervised the training of the new weavers. Bottom is a design called 'Arap Gegati'. A typical handmade 2.2m by 0.8m piece of cloth ranges between $300 and $2,000 depending on the design. Pictures: Rozan Yunos collection
Sunday, July 20, 2008
FOR the many tourists that come to the Abode of Peace, they will discover that one of our hidden treasures is that Brunei Darussalam is surprisingly rich in its own style of traditional crafts, ensuring that any of their purchases in Brunei will be unique items to be treasured for years to come.
These include the resplendent gold or silver-threaded material known as Jong Sarat and collector textiles called Kain Tenunan (weaved cloth). Jong Sarat and Kain Tenunan are often worn during weddings or other formal occasions.
The traditional Brunei Malay men's Baju Melayu will not be complete without the Jong Sarat tied around the waist like a skirt.
Both royalty and commoner alike are proud to adorn their very best for weddings and other special events. Naturally the silver and golden thread weaved cloth — Brunei's most expensive local clothing material — will constitute a large part of looking and feeling good for these auspicious events.
Admittedly woven fabrics are not the monopoly of Brunei. In fact many countries around Southeast Asia are justifiably famous for their woven fabrics.
Intricate designs made with fine and expensive threads are the hallmark of an industry that has been carried out in this region for many centuries. However, Brunei in particular is proud of her tradition in this ancient craft and produces some of the finest examples of woven material to be seen anywhere in the world.
According to the Information Department's handbook entitled The Traditional Handicrafts of Brunei Darussalam published in 1994, the earliest recorded mention of cloth-weaving in Brunei can be traced to Sultan Bolkiah's reign from 1485 to 1524.
Ferdinand Magellan, a Portugese maritime explorer, visited Brunei some time during this period and his official chronicler, Antonio Pigafetta, reported seeing beautiful examples of Brunei handicrafts, in particular the woven cloth.
But Hajah Kadariah in her book Collection of Brunei Traditional Woven Cloth published in 2003 argued that according to the history of China, during the Sung Dynasty (969-1279 CE), it was reported that the King of Puni (Brunei's old name) wore a certain cloth around his waist (sinjang), known as Kain Ujong Sarat, a Brunei woven cloth. So by the time of Magellan about 200 years after, the woven cloth should have long established itself in Brunei. This shows that cloth weaving was already common even in those days.
We do not know how cloth weaving originated in Brunei. Some have said that cloth weaving in Brunei undoubtedly started within Kampong Ayer (water village).
We do know that other than the indigenous Borneo tribes and nomadic hunters, the majority of Brunei's population lived on the waterfront. It was in their Kampong Ayer homes that the women perfected their skills. Like most traditions it is most likely that the art of weaving has been preserved through the centuries by the age-old system of mother teaching daughter.
It was highly probable they probably exchanged patterns and equipment, helped each other when difficulties arose and generally operated within a tightly knit cooperative. It was from this that the art flourished and it is not difficult to see where the inspiration for the designs came from.
Living in harmony with their natural beautiful surroundings and their deep faith in Islam inspired many of the designs. The popular creations of yesteryears, incorporating nature's abundant source of idea such as leaves, local flowers as well as Islamic patterns, make up the majority of designs one can still see today.
According to tradition, the weavers were generally found in the villages which make up Kampong Ayer especially in Kampung Lorong Sekuna, Kampung Burung Pingai, Kampung Burong Pingat, Kampong Lorong Dalam and Kampung Bukit Salat. Cloth-weaving served as a means of additional income for housewives, so that they can help contribute to their family's economy.
By the end of the World War II, the industry can be said to be in the doldrums and would have died. Not many people continued to weave. However at first through the British expatriates, the government started to revive the local handicrafts such as brassmaking and cloth weaving. But these developments depended very much on the enthusiasm of those officers.
In the 1970s, greater efforts were taken by our very own local officers which also included ensuring that all the industries are safe and taken care of.
The Arts and Crafts Building built in 1975 was officially opened. The centre is able to teach the various Brunei traditional handicrafts and not just limited to the weaving of cloth.
At the same time, many of the government's uniforms were newly designed to incorporate the weaved cloth.
The uniforms for all the Ministers, the Cheterias and other noblemen, senior government officials, University of Brunei Darussalam's senate and graduation gowns, and the nurses graduation gowns, for example, all have the weaved cloth incorporated into the designs thus boosting the weaved cloth industry.
It is in fact the gold and silver threads that make up the design. Hence a good deal of attention is paid to this detail.
The actual job of weaving thread into cloth is a complicated one and would be difficult to describe step by step.
It is generally considered that a good coordination between hands, arms and feet is necessary, coupled with inordinate amounts of skill, patience and, of course, craftsmanship learnt over many years of practice.
The finished standard piece of cloth measures about 2.2 metres by 0.8 metres and can take anything from 10 to 15 days, and sometimes even months, to finish depending on the intricacy of the design and the speed at which the woman works.
The prices of the weaved cloth reflect the intricate designs and the hard work that a weaver has to undergo. Prices range from about $300 to $2,000 per piece depending on the pattern that one chooses.
The designs too have survived many centuries. The most well-known and famous is the Jong Sarat. It is generally acknowledged that the design reflected the skill, artistic beauty and fine workmanship in which a quality cloth possesses. And there are various designs available.
According to Hjh Kadariah, the names and the designs include Bunga Kembang Setahun, Bunga Melor, Bunga Selaseh, Bunga Mekar Sekolam, Bunga Belitang Kipas, Bunga Tanjung Berantai, Bunga Berdearai Indah Berseri, and Arap Gegati Bunga Anggerek — just to name a few. In Brunei, this old tradition has been given a breath of new life. Hopefully the cloth weaving tradition will continue for centuries to come.
The writer runs a website on Brunei at bruneiresources.com.
The Brunei Time
These include the resplendent gold or silver-threaded material known as Jong Sarat and collector textiles called Kain Tenunan (weaved cloth). Jong Sarat and Kain Tenunan are often worn during weddings or other formal occasions.
The traditional Brunei Malay men's Baju Melayu will not be complete without the Jong Sarat tied around the waist like a skirt.
Both royalty and commoner alike are proud to adorn their very best for weddings and other special events. Naturally the silver and golden thread weaved cloth — Brunei's most expensive local clothing material — will constitute a large part of looking and feeling good for these auspicious events.
Admittedly woven fabrics are not the monopoly of Brunei. In fact many countries around Southeast Asia are justifiably famous for their woven fabrics.
Intricate designs made with fine and expensive threads are the hallmark of an industry that has been carried out in this region for many centuries. However, Brunei in particular is proud of her tradition in this ancient craft and produces some of the finest examples of woven material to be seen anywhere in the world.
According to the Information Department's handbook entitled The Traditional Handicrafts of Brunei Darussalam published in 1994, the earliest recorded mention of cloth-weaving in Brunei can be traced to Sultan Bolkiah's reign from 1485 to 1524.
Ferdinand Magellan, a Portugese maritime explorer, visited Brunei some time during this period and his official chronicler, Antonio Pigafetta, reported seeing beautiful examples of Brunei handicrafts, in particular the woven cloth.
But Hajah Kadariah in her book Collection of Brunei Traditional Woven Cloth published in 2003 argued that according to the history of China, during the Sung Dynasty (969-1279 CE), it was reported that the King of Puni (Brunei's old name) wore a certain cloth around his waist (sinjang), known as Kain Ujong Sarat, a Brunei woven cloth. So by the time of Magellan about 200 years after, the woven cloth should have long established itself in Brunei. This shows that cloth weaving was already common even in those days.
We do not know how cloth weaving originated in Brunei. Some have said that cloth weaving in Brunei undoubtedly started within Kampong Ayer (water village).
We do know that other than the indigenous Borneo tribes and nomadic hunters, the majority of Brunei's population lived on the waterfront. It was in their Kampong Ayer homes that the women perfected their skills. Like most traditions it is most likely that the art of weaving has been preserved through the centuries by the age-old system of mother teaching daughter.
It was highly probable they probably exchanged patterns and equipment, helped each other when difficulties arose and generally operated within a tightly knit cooperative. It was from this that the art flourished and it is not difficult to see where the inspiration for the designs came from.
Living in harmony with their natural beautiful surroundings and their deep faith in Islam inspired many of the designs. The popular creations of yesteryears, incorporating nature's abundant source of idea such as leaves, local flowers as well as Islamic patterns, make up the majority of designs one can still see today.
According to tradition, the weavers were generally found in the villages which make up Kampong Ayer especially in Kampung Lorong Sekuna, Kampung Burung Pingai, Kampung Burong Pingat, Kampong Lorong Dalam and Kampung Bukit Salat. Cloth-weaving served as a means of additional income for housewives, so that they can help contribute to their family's economy.
By the end of the World War II, the industry can be said to be in the doldrums and would have died. Not many people continued to weave. However at first through the British expatriates, the government started to revive the local handicrafts such as brassmaking and cloth weaving. But these developments depended very much on the enthusiasm of those officers.
In the 1970s, greater efforts were taken by our very own local officers which also included ensuring that all the industries are safe and taken care of.
The Arts and Crafts Building built in 1975 was officially opened. The centre is able to teach the various Brunei traditional handicrafts and not just limited to the weaving of cloth.
At the same time, many of the government's uniforms were newly designed to incorporate the weaved cloth.
The uniforms for all the Ministers, the Cheterias and other noblemen, senior government officials, University of Brunei Darussalam's senate and graduation gowns, and the nurses graduation gowns, for example, all have the weaved cloth incorporated into the designs thus boosting the weaved cloth industry.
It is in fact the gold and silver threads that make up the design. Hence a good deal of attention is paid to this detail.
The actual job of weaving thread into cloth is a complicated one and would be difficult to describe step by step.
It is generally considered that a good coordination between hands, arms and feet is necessary, coupled with inordinate amounts of skill, patience and, of course, craftsmanship learnt over many years of practice.
The finished standard piece of cloth measures about 2.2 metres by 0.8 metres and can take anything from 10 to 15 days, and sometimes even months, to finish depending on the intricacy of the design and the speed at which the woman works.
The prices of the weaved cloth reflect the intricate designs and the hard work that a weaver has to undergo. Prices range from about $300 to $2,000 per piece depending on the pattern that one chooses.
The designs too have survived many centuries. The most well-known and famous is the Jong Sarat. It is generally acknowledged that the design reflected the skill, artistic beauty and fine workmanship in which a quality cloth possesses. And there are various designs available.
According to Hjh Kadariah, the names and the designs include Bunga Kembang Setahun, Bunga Melor, Bunga Selaseh, Bunga Mekar Sekolam, Bunga Belitang Kipas, Bunga Tanjung Berantai, Bunga Berdearai Indah Berseri, and Arap Gegati Bunga Anggerek — just to name a few. In Brunei, this old tradition has been given a breath of new life. Hopefully the cloth weaving tradition will continue for centuries to come.
The writer runs a website on Brunei at bruneiresources.com.
The Brunei Time
Business Besides Oil
