Tuesday October 14, 2008

Mournful ghosts or meat not covered?


Friday, July 27, 2007

SAUDI ARABIA is a place that surely challenges a journalist's professional ego. The common image of it being a desert with rich princes and women in black cloaks covering them from head to toe often tempts a writer to write about it with a great deal of sensationalism.

BBC correspondent Rachel Reid's recent reflection on Saudi, initially titled The First Woman to Swim in Saudi, and then changed to Making a Public Splash in Saudi, is reminiscent of such literature.

"Reading through Reid's article, it was as if she wrote about Saudi some 50 or more years ago women are depicted as subjects, recipients. Expressions such as 'folded away' and 'ushered' draw a dim picture of oppressed women beaten around like cattle," commented Hoda. I listened to her as I looked back into the article, up to the third paragraph, where I reread her description of Gulf women in abaya as "mournful ghosts".

As a half-Egyptian, half-Saudi woman, my life has always been divided between Egypt and Saudi Arabia. In Egypt, I drive and I wear whatever I want. In Saudi Arabia, I can't drive and I have to wear an abaya on top of whatever I'm wearing. I switch between both modes naturally. I hardly give it a thought.

The black abaya that women wear in public places in Saudi has always been in my wardrobe. I put it on as I go to the airport to take my flight to Jeddah or Riyadh, always have it on as I walk in shopping malls or in the streets of Mekah and Madinah, and sometimes forget I have it on when I go visit a cousin.

Sometimes it gets in the way as I come out of a car, sometimes I trip over it when I come up or down the stairs, but I always attribute it to malpractice. As I try to hide my embarrassment, most of the women around me always seem to walk in it with grace and ease.

It never occurred to me once that I looked like a mournful ghost — no child ever screamed when they saw me.

You can never enforce a single uniform on people, let alone women. Walk in any fancy mall and you will be stunned by the variety of fabrics, designs, and decorated color appliques, not to mention the high heels, luxury bags, and full makeup that nearly always come with it.

So even as the abaya is an enforced uniform on women, it never snatched away their personal taste or preference. Saudi women who do cover in plain black, head to toe, are culturally accustomed to it. In fact, some of them continue to wear it even outside the country.

Saudi women do not have to be escorted by men everywhere they go. Any visit to a "family" section in a restaurant shows it. Yes, they live segregated lives, but this has created a parallel public world with its own social codes and standards. It is also a world of ease and luxury that can easily get you into thinking that it is unsurpassed even by the Saudi man's world.

There is very little that Saudi women cannot do in their own world. As a practising Muslim wearing the hijab, I find my clothes nearly have no place in Saudi. I catch myself digging for jeans and dresses each time I have to travel there. Underneath the abayas, women there wear anything they please. It even gets competitive.

The busier women are always caught in their work, and in their leisure time they practise a wide variety of sports ranging from martial arts to horseback riding, the latter often taught by a male trainer.

"Saudi Arabia is loaded with a number of social and sports clubs that offer special services for women, and swimming is no exception," commented Maida Zaazou, a Saudi poet and writer who takes swimming as a primary sport.

Saudi women's roles are not necessarily confined to the "private public" sphere. An increasing number have joined the workforce.

Currently, there is a large number of women members in the Jeddah Chamber of Commerce and Industry.

"There are four women in the board of directors," added Salih Al Turki, the chairman of the board.

Islam Online