'Surf's Up' at Tungku Beach

LAST week a storm in the Philippines generated a swell that reached the Bruneian coast. The northerly swell created ideal conditions for local surfers who were quick to head to Tungku Beach. Surfers enjoyed these exceptional conditions and boogie boarders also tested the big swell. Strong, regular sets of waves rolled in, to the delight of wave riders.

Last Tuesday, waves were "overhead", easing to two-to-three foot by Wednesday afternoon. By last Friday the swell had eased further, but still attracted a large number of surfers, boogie-boarders and swimmers to the beach. So, next time "surf's up" at Tungku, or anywhere along the Bruneian shore, follow these steps:

Buy a board, either old or new; try searching for it in Brunei first. Otherwise pick one up in the Philippines, Indonesia or New Zealand.

Once at the beach, wax your board. Then, attach the leg-rope to your leg; this connects you to your board.

From the beach, check out the surf and check which way the waves are breaking. Also, check for rips and rocks. Watch other surfers to see how they handle sea conditions.

Now wade into the sea, then lie flat on your board and paddle out through the surf.

Dive under approaching waves, otherwise you will be swept back to the beach and never get out.

Push yourself and your board under the waves and these will pass over you.

Paddle, until you are out behind the breaking waves, where it's calm. Admire the view.

Now, paddle when you see an approaching swell-line. When the wave reaches you paddle hard to catch it and jump up quickly on to your board.

Timing here is crucial; too slow and the wave will pass you by, and too fast you will be rolled by the wave.

You are now standing on a wall of water, riding the South China Sea towards the Borneo coast. This is a unique moment and one seldom equalled in life. "Selamat Datang" to surfing in Negara Brunei Darussalam!

The writer is a CfBT English teacher at Sekolah Menengah Berakas

The Brunei Times