Abaya gets haute makeover

WITH the fashion bug biting every urbanite, even Islamic veils are being structured to look haute. Little wonder then, the abayas, the outer robes for women favoured in Arabian Gulf countries, have undergone a sea change in adapting to modern tastes. Shops in Dubai, Jeddah, Kuwait City, Doha and Muscat showcase new trends in abayas almost every week.

For a young woman like Amna Sharief who wants to be veiled and yet remain fashionable, designer abayas have come as a godsend. For her, the abaya is longer a black cloak.

Says Zainab Baomar, a designer with Ice Bird Fashion in Muscat, capital of Oman: "The old traditional abaya was simple and easy to wear but the new style has become very haute and versatile. And they are a great hit with the teenage girls."

According to Kifaya, another Omani designer, the abayas now come with shimmering crystal beads, pearls, satin flowers, embroidery or patches in coloured fabrics.

"Besides local designers like us, they also are designed by Calvin Klein, Christian Dior, beading and embroidery by some of the most highly-acclaimed artists in the world, slim fit, wide fit, long fit, wide sleeves, thin sleeves the choices are endless."

"Choosing an abaya is as difficult as choosing a bag, sandal or ring since the range is enormous," notes an avid fan of haute abayas, Salma, adding she would spend up to 3,000 dirhams ($1,200) on a wedding abaya and half that amount on one meant for other outings. An average little fancy abaya can cost around $363.

Shops featuring colourful embroidered abayas with head covers of flowers, butterflies and animals in the Gulf States do brisk business.

In Muscat, shops around the city are packed with boutiques doing a brisk trade in snazzy new abaya designs, ones with bold designs, some that are a little transparent, with shorter hems and many with elaborate trimmings and even slogans embroidered on the back.

Black is the traditional colour for abayas, but muted shades of brown, blue and green are also sought after.

Mohammad Bahrani, a celebrated designer in Dubai, recently pushed the boundaries by hosting a fashion show in coordination with Swarovski and turned out to be a resounding hit.

His designs were almost Gautier-like with peepholes and lattice-like openings in the back and sides of his black abayas, with the average abaya costing $7,300.

Burberry in the UAE is working on producing a "Gulf Chic" range of branded abayas, head scarves and sandals.

"The explosion of chic abayas with slick fashion shows and hot ad campaigns reflects the desire of Muslim women to define their own identity," Mohammad Bahrani observes.

Abaya styles in the Gulf have evolved much like fashion anywhere in the world.

For weddings, a special abaya has to be ordered much in advance as the abaya must be as stylish as the dress underneath and the shinier, the better. And the wedding abayas are more expensive than the wedding gowns.

The abaya, though, is only part of the story. The shaila, or large scarf wrapped as a head cover, must match.

Alternatively, a fancy shaila will liven up a plain abaya worn at work or on daily errands.

While classic black lace is still used, Swarovski crystal beads, single or multi-coloured, are the hit for dressy abayas. Look even closer and you will be amazed at the intricate detail, style, fitting and type available to women.

Abaya has marked the arrival of a new Arab woman.

The Brunei Times