Time to indulge in hypnotising Ipoh

IPOH became famous for tin which was discovered in the 19th century. Another feature of the capital of Perak is the rounded limestone outcrops, often covered in low-lying cloud, that make the surrounding landscape look like a scene from a Chinese painting.

For many, Ipoh is just a place to pass by while heading north along the highway. A closer look at Ipoh's historic old town reveals many of the fascinating aspects of the city's past and of the wealth that was generated when tin was discovered. While maybe not everyone's first choice for a weekend escape, a new and indulgent retreat in the city is providing an excellent reason for driving to Ipoh.

The world's richest tin deposits were found in the surrounding Kinta Valley, and much of the land, especially around nearby Batu Gajah, is pitted with dunes and lakes that were formed after the tin was extracted.

Some of the caves have been converted into Buddhists and Hindu shrines. Sam Poh Tong, located 7 kilometres south of Ipoh, is the region's biggest cave temple. Stop here and look at the colourful designs and buy some pomelos from one of the many nearby stalls.

The old city, centred on the railway station is the best place to start exploring Ipoh. Ipoh Train Station is a wonderful colonial structure, known as the "Taj Mahal" of the north. Built in the mid 1800's, this impressive landmark combines Moghul architecture with some modern embellishments.

There's an old hotel here that has seen better days and which will appeal to those with a passion for a truly bygone era. Named the Majestic Station Hotel, it and the Verandah Café are both situated on the third floor.

A real estate agent would call the hotel a "renovator's delight", as sadly it needs extensive restoration. However, one can only just imagine this Rafflesque property and with people lazing around in deep rattan lounges and sipping cooling drinks beneath slowly rotating ceiling fans.

Superior rooms here (single or double) cost very little and offer one of the city's best bargains especially for those who like a little nostalgia (Tel: +605 255-5605). Rooms on the third floor are preferable as they open onto a vast cool verandah. All the rooms are huge and no doubt reflect the time when people travelled.

Stand at one end of the café and imagine the station in its heyday in the 1920's when train travel was the main way of getting around the peninsula. The station would have been the major hub in the region and was probably really buzzing with travellers who had come up country for most government meetings or planters on their way down south to the bright lights of Kuala Lumpur.

Many of the fixtures appear as if they could have been from this era. The rattan blinds hanging from the arches have seen better days and the pressed iron ceiling needs a little maintenance. The lounge furniture is a collection of hand me downs although the pine tables and chairs in the restaurant have a contemporary gleam. The ceiling fans slowly squeak between long bulbous light fittings. Bougainvillaea's, bright with pink flowers are intertwined around the columns that constitute the low verandah railings.

Ipoh Train Station overlooks Medan Stesen Ipoh, a pleasant gardened area and immediately beyond this the all-white colonial-styled Town Hall. This historic area of Ipoh is a great movie set just waiting for a script to be written.

The Royal Ipoh Club is located just past the High Court on Jalan Panglima Bukit Gantang Wahab. Facing the padang, the green playing fields and the classy black-and-white Tudor-style clubhouse looks very much like Kuala Lumpur's Royal Selangor Club. Both properties date from the same era and members have reciprocal rights.

Opposite the Royal Ipoh Club, along Jalan S. P. Seenivasagam is the imposing three-storey St Michael's School, a historical building of true national significance. The school features with decorated gables and the wide arched verandah, running the length of the building.

A few kilometres away in a newer area of Ipoh, Indulgence Restaurant and Living (Tel: +605 255-7051, website: www.indulgencerestaurant.com is making lovers of fine food, wine and boutique accommodation sit up and take note. While most Malaysians are content with Ipoh delicacies such as ngah choy kai (chicken and bean sprouts) and Ipoh sar hor fun (noodles) it seems that a new generation of diners are flocking to the famed Indulgence to sample dishes such as pistachio and rocket pesto tossed with gramigna pasta, topped with chestnut tempura and pistachio and Parmigiano crisp and, delicious seared scallops topped with crusts of spinach, red peppers and pumpkin with edamame sautéd in chilli-bean sauce topped with crisp fish skin.

The restaurant is located on a sprawling plot of land so typical of Ipoh. The Tudor-inspired building was once a mansion for one of Ipoh's well-to-do families and has been modified by the inspiration behind Indulgence, Julie Song. Julie opened the first Indulgence in 1996 but moved to the larger premises two years ago. The restaurant has taken Ipoh by storm as well as winning several national awards and making the hospitality industry sit up and take notice in the process.

Not content to serve fine food to her guests, she has just opened a boutique hotel above the restaurant. The six-themed rooms are stunning in their decor, comfort and style. Julie leaves nothing to chance with the individual creative design of each room. Guests can stay in Room three called "Beverley" which is a suite with an English country ambience including a four-poster bed, plush lounges and paintings but with contemporary features such as a rainforest head shower, mini bar fridge and a flat-screen plasma television.

Lovers of fine food, intimate and unique accommodation and personalised service will instantly fall in love with Indulgence and happily head up to Ipoh for an indulgent weekend in Ipoh and enjoy the grand splendour.The Brunei Times