Hanoi, a city made for walking

I'M NOT sure when it happened but I've noticed that my travels have gone from the general to the specific.

It's like I am now viewing the world through a macro lense rather than wide angle.

Take my most recent trip to Hanoi, the Vietnamese capital. The first time I visited Vietnam well over a decade ago, I travelled the length and breadth of the country cramming in as much as possible in the short time available. It was a fantastic experience as the country was opening up and visitors were able to travel outside the large cities for the first time. More recently, I spent much of my time within a one kilometre radius of the delightful Hoen Kiem Lake in downtown Hanoi feasting on the fruits of the land in a city that has taken to capitalist business practices within the confines of a centrally-planned society. Hanoi is one of the region's best walking cities, the Old Quarter is a rabbit warren of streets where even the most adventurous is guaranteed to get lost at some stage. There are some great restaurants, cafés and sidewalk diners to seek refuge or to enjoy a snack.

The principle tourist district of Hanoi is centred on the beautiful lake called Hoan Kiem and the surrounding Old Quarter. The central part of Hanoi, including the Old and French Quarters, is about as charming as Asia gets. It's easily negotiated on foot although the mounting battalions of motorbikes create some anxiety as you cross roads.

I like the parklands surrounding Hoan Kiem and recommend this as the best place to start exploring. While the lake can be circumnavigated in about an hour or so, there are so many distractions that it could take several hours if you let the passing parade have the better of you.

Vietnam was once under Chinese and French influence and, over time, it has traded extensively with Indian and Portuguese merchants. These have all left their mark on the ways in which Vietnamese food is prepared, cooked and served.

Vietnamese food is light, subtle and flavoursome without the chilli heat found in many Asian cuisines. It's not overly spicy although many dishes, including the ever-popular pho (pronounced fur) or rice noodle soup, are usually accompanied by cut chilli.

While Vietnamese cooking traditions were in place before the French arrived, there are many obvious colonial French influences. Great bread and strong coffee are two traditions that influence Vietnam's cuisine. Few Vietnamese dishes are complete without the addition of herbs, either as a garnish or an integral ingredient. Many are eaten wrapped in fresh lettuce leaves along with one or two herbs such as fennel, coriander, mint basil and fresh dill added for flavour. Fresh ingredients are one of the main pillars of Vietnamese food. Popular dishes include deep-fried spring rolls, stewed clay-pot fish, prawn on sticks of sugar cane, crispy egg pancake, stir-fried crab with tamarind sauce, sweet lotus seed soup and pomelo and chicken salad, to name just a few. Coffee is taken seriously in Hanoi and Hapro Café is typical of the vibrant café society that flourishes here. Try traditional coffee filtered through an aluminium immerser or iced coffee called café sua da. In other parts of the city, residents take their coffee on low stools and tables on the pavement or in open market places. Eating and drinking are some of the many pleasures visitors to Hanoi will encounter. Dining in the streets and markets at innumerable and unnamed eateries is highly encouraged.

The Brunei Times