Rumble on the road to Cartagena

BRUNEI'S very own global trekker Norhayati Abu Bakar and her husband, Harun Kurt Eichbauer and their faithful four-wheel drive Toyota Landcruiser dubbed "Jambo", are on their leg of the South American continent.

In this edition, The Brunei Times presents Norhayati's travel note for her journey entitled: "From Brunei to around the World 2009 - 2010, 25 Years Brunei Independence Expedition". The following are excerpts from their 2010 travelogue (www.overthehorizon.net).

Wednesday, July 21

Last night we checked the GPS. Since Jambo came out of the port in Buenos Aires, we have driven through Argentina, Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador and now on to Cartagena in Colombia a total distance of 17,281km. Driving from Patagonia's ice storms to the gentle waves of the Caribbean, in deep devotion we pray silently, "Thank you Almighty for protecting us".

I'd like to put a note to our readers a big hug to all sponsors. We have achieved what we have set out to do in South America. It was only possible with your great heart. Together we make history for our beloved Brunei Darussalam.

Thursday, July 22

Upon reaching Cartagena, we headed straight to the port. For four days we went to the Schenker representative there trying to expedite Jambo's next port of destination. Days passed by with little progress, but still Jambo was not released.

With Jambo still under lock in and still not going to where it was supposed to we were worried that someone could just possibly smuggle some stuff into Jambo we were very well informed that Columbia is the main cocaine supplier to the USA.

As there was no English-speaking staff to accomplish the job, there were delays in shipping Jambo out of Cartagena into the USA. So we seek the assistance of another forwarding company to get Jambo cleared for customs and port.

Ernesto of Enlace Caribe said he could do the process for a fee of US$200. The price seemed reasonable and we took all documents along to his office and it was the best that could happen to us. He does some clearings and after a few phone calls he said, "Tomorrow we load your vehicle, I will be there by 7:45am."

Saturday, July 24

By 8am we drove to the port. The procedure begun, we checked Jambo for any dents, and go through the inventory checklist. Then came the customs checking in the anti-narcotics hall. The customs officer was obviously briefed, and he signed the carnet.

Anti-narcotics checking took over one hour. The officers knocked and hammered on the door chairs and body, we had to remove all our stuff out of Jambo. Finally the sniffer dogs jumped into Jambo to certified that there was nothing to be found. After repacking and we drove Jambo back into the container, disconnected the batteries, and locked all doors with padlocks.

By 1pm we had paid our final port dues, and Jambo was cleared for her next journey. "That was fast." Thanking the forwarding company and customs officers, we returned to our hotel.

Sunday, July 25

Quiet days in Cartagena. We walked around in the historic town today, relieved as our vehicle was technically out of Columbia already, sealed in a container in Cartagena awaiting transport. Cartagena has little of interest besides the old fortress and some Spanish-era buildings.

Monday, July 26

We went again to the port and paid the shipment costs of Jambo including all other charges. It came to pesos 3.5 mio that is about US$2,480 (around $3,345). Later during the day we went to the historical township where the museum is located and where artifacts of the inquisition are exhibited.

Thursday, July 29

While waiting for the taxi, which was to bring us to the only cool place that is the Caribic Mall, something similar to Brunei's Center Point.

A travel agent told us it would cost US$630 per person to fly to Miami. "Wow, that's a lot of money for a two-hour flight."

"Do you have something cheaper, never mind not flying direct to Florida, but an airport somewhere near will do. We could then take the bus to Miami." Sandra, that's her name, dig deep into her travel schedule bookings and pulled one that cost US$290 each.

"But only on Sunday and you have to fly to Fort Lauderdale." We accepted gladly. Fort Lauderdale is only 70 km from Miami. In the evening we went to the historic centre to sample the local cultural dance performances.

Friday, July 30

We received an e-mail asking why we do drive through middle American countries such as Panama, Honduras, Nicaragua and so forth. It was our original intention to do so but being here now, we could clearly see the dangers involved.

While some countries are "safe" others are a security disaster, Mexico being the worst. Criminals have taken over the land. Everyday there were news that people are kidnapped. Not one day passes without newspapers reporting on dozens of murders, and provinces under the control of the drug cartels.

The government with the corrupt police has no say. And then just imagine, dear readers, we show up on the borders with our flashy Jambo. How far do you thing we can go without being stopped for extortion? Or worse, kidnappers taking us away for ransom? Not a pretty sight to behold. The mere mention of Brunei emblazoned all over Jambo is enough to get followers of the drug cartels to google what "Brunei" really means. "Porpavor ... Ohhh .... si, si, Brunei richest country in the world. Citizens good specimens for ransom scenario." Over here the local TV programmes painted a far very grey and grim picture of the situation here, just as we hear it in Asia. And quite unfortunately it is the reality here.

My mind keep pounding these messages over and over again, "No Sir! We do not wish to travel there. We want to enjoy our Nasi Lemak in Brunei once again, and not having our remains rotting away somewhere at a jungle path or fed on by vultures". Mexico is in turmoil with no end in sight.

Saturday, July 31

Finally we received our "Bill of Landing" for our dear Jambo. We enquired with the shipping line, and yes, our Jambo is sailing towards USA. The ship is to arrive the next day and we fly out too.

The day was later spend at lower-income housing areas of Cartagena. Here we noticed that there is no more tarred road, most if not all are of African decent and security grills were everywhere to protect whatever little possessions they own.

This was the moment to bid adieu to South America. We have travelled it from Ushuaia, the southernmost town on planet Earth all the way up to Cartagena in Cocaine-country Columbia. And our observation? Wherever we travelled in South America, the poor are plentiful and the super rich are very very few in numbers.

However the land of the fabled Andes offers exceptional beauty even unmatched by Africa. There is nothing like South America, despite the real dangers we went through.

We are now leaving the third world to the biggest borrower of the planet, USA, and then later transit to Canada, and steer Jambo "North to Alaska" as the gold-digger song indicated. Not to the gold claims staked in Klondike but to Anchorage, to raise our beloved national flag of Brunei under the polar lights, and ship Jambo from there to Australia for the final part of the "Around the world" journey. We look forward to it.

The Brunei Times